Is naturally raised food so ho-hum?

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Food Editor Bill Pitcher has been doing restaurant reviews in the absence of Elisa Ung. But in today's appraisal of Ho-Ho-Kus Inn & Tavern, he doesn't seem to give the place any points for serving naturally raised chicken, pork and beef, and wild fish.

The $1.5 million renovation, food and service draw only two and a half stars from Pitcher -- only a half star more than Ung gave Bahama Breeze, one of those awful, faux-Caribbean chain restaurants, on Route 23 in Wayne. That rating by Ung in The Record of Woodland Park has been haunting her and Pitcher, and diluting the ratings of other restaurants.

Restaurants that serve naturally raised food aren't so common in North Jersey that they should be treated like every other place.